Restoration in progress [Archive] - Endless Boating Community Forums

bigredinohio

10-10-2009, 10:55 PM

Feel free to ask questions or comment regarding to the content of this thread.

My first attempt at restoring an old boat. I decided to go with this little old boat as I thought it had character and figure you can't go wrong with a Checkmate. I probably overpaid for it but it was under $1000.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2428.jpg
what I brought home

I decided to clean the outside and buff the top to see if I could restore any of the gel coat. It did smooth out somewhat but unfortunately it did not restore any color and probably too far gone for simply "sanding and buffing" back to it's original state. I've had some great input in another thread in the gel coat section which is still on-going. I have not made up my mind as to what I want to do http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif but my wife just wants the boat to function and worry about looks down the road.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2432.jpg
before buffing

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2497.jpg
after buffing...you can notice the difference in colors and "blotch" effects

Now I'm in the process of gutting the "soft" floor out of the boat. To my surprise, T-111 wood siding was flipped over and used as the flooring. Also I saw a lot of water standing in the bottom and my stringer is just nasty!

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2508.jpg
sample removal of carpet with flooring coming up with the carpet

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2509.jpg
stringer sitting in water

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2510.jpg
T-111 flooring!

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2511.jpg
stringer sitting in water

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2512.jpg
a look up towards the bow

bigredinohio

10-10-2009, 11:01 PM

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2516.jpg
My superviser

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2519.jpg
More rotted stringer

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2520.jpg
Close up of the transom...Note the rust from the bolts...that's a good indicator that you have transom issues i.e. a wet and/or rotted transom.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2537.jpg
Hey look, they do have foam in this boat.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2538.jpg
Finally somewhat cleaned up. Don't know if you can see the wet mark but I had some water seeping up through the fiberglass that wasn't completely sealed in the little area...would this be the balsa core I hear about?

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2541.jpg
Some sanding done to clean up the carpet glue and old epoxy.

bigredinohio

10-10-2009, 11:21 PM

THE GREAT DEBATE
Some decisions that I had to answer in this restoration:

Polyester Resin vs. Epoxy Resin
Epoxy is easier to use and more forgiving to a beginner, stronger and more waterproof then poly IMO but is more expensive, does not wet out CSM (mat) very well and way more toxic to your body and once your body starts to react to it, you're allergic for life. If I had to do it all over again, I'd still probably use epoxy but I would definitely use poly if I do this again with another boat.

Type of plywood - CDX, Treated, Marine or a composite i.e. Coosa
I went with CDX. For what I lose in the others, I hope to gain with the use of epoxy. Additionally, I have a set budget and if I'm able to save $200-$500 by using CDX, I can use that money for paint and finish work.

To Acetone or Not to Acetone
Another debate lives on whether you should wipe the surface you are about to glass with acetone. A guy that I have much respect for says no as it will smear contaminates. Normally I do use acetone to clean a surface except for where sanding has been done where carpet glue or other possible contaminates was or could be.

If you're reading this, you must do your own research and come to your own conclusions since it's your boat at the end of the day.

:) :) :) :) :) :)

Initial Supplies
I ordered three gallons of 2:1 System Three epoxy (2 gallons of resin:1 gallon of hardener), 3/8" end grain balsa core and 15 yds. of 10oz. fiberglass cloth to get started from Merton's. Joe is a very busy man but has always been willing to stop and take a few minutes to answer my questions that I've had regarding fiberglassing. Also included in the order were glassing rollers, cheap chip brushes, stir sticks, mixing cups and thixotropic powder (resin thickening agent).
Mertons website: http://www.mertons.com/

I also ordered supplies from US Composites for three additional gallons of 2:1 epoxy. This epoxy is a house brand and seems a little runnier then the System Three brand. I also ordered 15 yds. of 1708 which is a biaxal cloth stitched to a fiberglass mat and a roll of 9 oz. or 10 oz. cloth tape. 1708 is a resin sinkhole for those who are considering using it but is extremely strong and allows for quick layups. The other purchase was some resin pumps. I ordered 1:1 just so I can use them whether I use 1:1, 2:1 or 3:1 epoxy. In my opinion, they are a must have when working with this resin. You probably won't find a cheaper priced resin anywhere else online then at US Composites.
US Composites website: http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html

Everyday Tools That I Use
Respirator, gloves & safety googles (Always #1)
Angle grinder with grinding and sanding disks
Sander/Polisher (mine is from Harbor Freight which I use for sanding)
Dremel tool with cut off wheel
Finish sander
Circular & jig saw
Drill
Rubber mallot & hammer
1/2" chisel - the most used tool in my arsenal
String
Tape measure
Square & Level
Clamps
Trowel
Knife and sissors
Leaf Blower
Shop vac

bigredinohio

10-10-2009, 11:27 PM

I debated on taking the motor off to work on the boat but I decided I had to. With the help from my wife, we were able to remove the motor with the aid from a circular saw and a cable winch attached to a big beam in my garage. http://forums.iboats.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif It still took approx. 5 hours to do (first time I've ever done it) and had minor complications. I had (2) 2x8's on my stand and it was too thick for the motor to sit on therefore the circular saw was used (on the wood stand). In addition, I mounted wheels onto the stand (which I wasn't going to do) and it raised the stand too tall so some modification was in order also.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2563.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2564.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2565.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2566.jpg

The transom looks fairly rough. Pretty banged up and will probably require a lot of attention. The bolts holding the motor were about half corroded from rust. I was planning on redoing this anyways along with everything thing else in this boat.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:01 AM

Some pictures of progress:

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2727.jpg
Grinding...where the fun is at! USE A FILTERED RESPIRATOR AND NOT A DUST MASK!!

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2734.jpg
Same of my wonderfully rotted core

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2733.jpg
You can get a sense of what I'm up against

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2820.jpg
Balsa replacement bedded in an epoxy paste with a layer of 10oz cloth glassed in on top. I'm going to lay a full sheet of 38" wide 1708 over this to complete it.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2822.jpg
The final section that needs replaced. I am going to do that after I get the transom replaced while the top is off for easy access.

Tip to those thinking of using epoxy, don't work with more then 9 ounces of epoxy especially when adding a thickener to turn it into paste because it WILL set up on you super fast. It will get real hot and sets in seconds. http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2737.jpg
I didn't listen to the advice that was given to me and I have about a pint and a half stuck in a container to prove it.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:06 AM

I was motivated to remove the cap so I could start work on the transom. While trying to remove the spashwell from the transom, I discovered what looked like someone poured mortar or concrete onto to fill in for some rotted wood? This didn't look or feel right but it was a compound that the factory used to bond the transom to the splashwell. It was literally "hard as a rock."

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2829.jpg
I did cut the top of the fiberglass out so I could pry the inside of the splashwell way from the transom.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2830.jpg
Little and big chunks of mortar/concrete

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2833.jpg
Now ready for transom removal

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2834.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2835.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2836.jpg
You can see a blob of this stuff still in there

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:13 AM

My plan was to cut and grind around the transom so I can remove it another day but this happened...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2837.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2839.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2840.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2844.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2845.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2847.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:17 AM

Did some work on the transom. I have a new one built by gluing two pieces of 3/4" ply together with PL Premium then I traced the outline from the old transom. I cut it out using a jig saw and re-drilled the holes for the tie-down hooks but I haven't coated with resin or glass yet. It was going to happen yesterday after I was done grinding/sanding the transom skin but I had to stop since I hurt my eye.

WEAR PROPER EYE PROTECTION

The wind blew the dust sideways between my eye and my safety glasses and it got me. Well, after the trip to urgent care, the doctor said it was a small scratch in my upper cornia, nothing major. Talk about painful. I guess it was a newbie mistake for not wearing goggles.

Anyways, I have some more sanding to do in the boat and a light sanding on the wood and the transom and all should be ready for some resin.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:18 AM

Here are some pictures from this weekends work on the boat...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2861.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2848.jpg
Pre-cutting fiberglass cloth

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2860.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:18 AM

Finally got to coat and glass the inside side of the transom. Nothing too exciting.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2867.jpg
1st coat

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2868.jpg
2nd coat

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2869.jpg
3rd coat with 10oz. cloth

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:20 AM

I bought my tank http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/images/smilies/bounce.gif to replace to old metal one at

http://store.easternmarineoutlet.com...categoryID=483 (http://store.easternmarineoutlet.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=8700&categoryID=483)

It was the cheapest that I could find anywhere at $164 with shipping.

26" x 16" x 11.75" - 19 gallon fuel tank = 18 gallons fuel:1.5 quart/3 pints oil for a 50:1 mixture.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:22 AM

Some pictures of progress being made...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2904.jpg
I pre-cut two layers of csm

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2905.jpg
Used poly resin...I do not like working with it compared to epoxy but had to try it.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2907.jpg
Did a no no and sanded a hole into the skin...I wasn't really happy about that

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2909.jpg
From the outside...bottom right hole

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2906.jpg
My two layers of patch work using csm and poly resin

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2910.jpg
I did get a layer of glass all the way around the bottom edge of the transom. It just needs a quick sanding and it's ready to go in now as soon as I get the preparation done to the skin.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:29 AM

I got the transom glued in F I N A L L Y! Here are some pics for your viewing enjoyment.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2911.jpg
My extra large clamps...thanks for the great idea Old Hickory

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2915.jpg
Felt like I was about to perform some surgery

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2917.jpg
Mixing pb

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2918.jpg
Trowelled out

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2920.jpg
Adding some more

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:30 AM

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2921.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2922.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2924.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2925.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2926.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:33 AM

Made some progress today. I fillet (rounded) the corners with some more epoxy pb (thickened resin aka peanut butter or pb).

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2936.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2937.jpg

Then I tabbed in the transom using 10oz. cloth.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2942.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2943.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:34 AM

Also have the horizontal transom brace comprised of two pieces of 3/4" ply glued together. I also have a rough cut of a vertical brace (there will be two) that I want but I need the cap back on before more can be done with them.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2935.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:36 AM

Well, I wanted to glass the transom in really bad with 1708 but I didn't get to it. Instead, I removed the last bit of bad core in the stern of the boat. I want to be able to lay the 1708 as far as I want without having to trim around an unfinished work area.

Well, the removal went fairly good until I started poking around the drain hole. Lets just say, more wood which means more rot for removal! I call it my mini transom.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2944.jpg
Side profile

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2945.jpg
Mini transom wood

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2946.jpg
Looking back at the skin

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_2948.jpg
Area cleaned up

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:37 AM

I replaced that last of the core in the back of the boat. Then I fiberglassed the inside part of the wood that butts up to the outer skin where the drain plug is and the bottom edge. After sanding, I glued it in using epoxy pb then used a carriage bolt to draw it in tight until it set up. I used the excess to fill in the gaps and filleted the corners but it needs sanded and additional filler added. The next batch will contain some slivers of glass that I cut up for added strength. After this, I should be able to sand and finish up the glassing of the transom.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3011.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:38 AM

Okay, I haven't updated the project so here goes. Last week, I sanded down the first batch of filling around the drain tube area. Then I mixed up some more pb with some homemade chopped up glass and put a second coat on to fill out some more.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3012.jpg

Afterwards, I sanded it all smooth in preparation for the 1708.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3069.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:39 AM

This day I broke into the US Composites epoxy since I'm about out of my System Three. The jury is still out on whether I like or dislike the US Composites stuff. Seems a lot runnier and less tacky. Anyways, I put my first layer of 1708 on today and I felt my wallet empty every time I went back to get more epoxy. http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/cuss.gif That stuff drinks it up.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3071.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3072.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:40 AM

I sanded the 1708 this morning with my disk sander and feathered the edges with my finish sander before the rain.
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3075.jpg

Then I pushed back into the garage for layer #2.
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3078.jpg

These were full when I started and here is what I went through in two days for two layers of 1708 on the transom.
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3077.jpg

Two thumbs up from the daughter makes it all worth while!
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3079.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:42 AM

Finished gluing in the cross support for the transom with PL Premium and also did a fillet. It was on the old transom when I ripped it out and my new transom bowed out about a 1/8" so this brought it in almost perfect.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3080.jpg
Sanded where the support will be and 2" additional from the top & bottom

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3081.jpg
Big clamps coming in handy again

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3083.jpg
Fillet - rounding the edge with excess PL Premo

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:45 AM

Well, the PL Premo fillet looked like absolute crap with bubbles this morning when I looked at. I went ahead and smoothed over that fillet with some epoxy pb. I encapsulated the brace at the bottom and the part that was glued to the transom but I didn't the top or the outside so I coated it with some epoxy before adding some scrap 1708. Then I glassed in the top part of the brace and will do the bottom hopefully tonight so I can remove the clamps by this weekend so I can place the cap back on.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3084.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:45 AM

I then added some scrap 1708 to to secure the brace at the bottom.
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3085.jpg

This is how much it pulled straight...I don't have a before picture to compare
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3086.jpg

Sanded the tabbing down and rounded the edge of the brace
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3087.jpg

Then added 10oz. cloth over all of the brace and transom for that matter. This isn't really for structural support but rather the pretty up the job and to seal the edge of the brace.
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3089.jpg

As for the delamination, I'm going to leave it as is. It doesn't have any give in it like there is an air pocket and the transom was encapsulated prior to installation. If there are any worries, it would be structural and I don't think that area will be of concern for me as it's well glassed around the sides and bottom. I do plan on putting boating putty or what not in that area to seal the cap/splashwell in so it should be sound.

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:47 AM

While waiting for a way to get more plywood, I put the cap back on the hull which was quite the task since the transom was out-of-whack from being bad for so long. I ended up having to cut into the splashwell to get it back on to fit. It just requires additional glassing which will probably be better in the long run where it will fit better around the transom.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3139.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3140.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3145.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:48 AM

After that, I got in and did some sanding on my glass work over the balsa core so I don't have to deal with it other then cleaning and glassing with 1708.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3144.jpg

Then I went the the bow and removed my bulkhead to have better access to the foam so I could remove it. The stuff was nasty to remove but was dry. I did leave the bow deck in place just for added support until I get the new main deck and stringer in then it will be removed and replaced.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3141.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3142.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:51 AM

Finally picked up some wood. The wood I picked up was pretty dry so I went ahead and cut my stringers which comprised of (3) 8' foot sections of 1/2 plywood. I overlapped two of them by 4' and glued them and took the other 8' section and cut it in half and glued onto the remaining section. This gave me a total length of 12' which is well more then I needed for my stringer.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3230.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3231.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3233.jpg

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:52 AM

Then I cut it to rough length then placed where it's going to sit. Then I took a piece of wood and drilled a hole approximately 1/2" up big enough to fit a pencil so I can scribe the bottom so I can replicate the contour of the hull to the stringer. Then I cut to size and refitted which is pretty good. After I finish the core repair and lay a layer of 1708, I'll be able to sand the bottom of the stringer so it fits better then cut the top of the stringer to size.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3234.jpg Wood place in hull

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3236.jpg Scribing the contour of the hull

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3235.jpg
Homemade scribing tool...had to break the pencil in half so I could scribe the bow area since the pencil was too long and used a screw to hold pencil in place.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3237.jpg
Fitted stringer look toward the bow

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3238.jpg
Fitted look toward the stern

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:52 AM

Update time! I hit the boat first thing this morning and was able to accomplish a lot. I cut some major pieces that include my deck, front bulkhead and gunnel boards. Before I took the grinder to the lip from the previous deck, I made a template with tracing paper. It wasn't the easiest thing to do but it worked. Today, I taped the template to the 1/2" plywood and took my knife and cut a slit into the paper so I could pencil a mark. After making an outline of sorts, I simply connected the dots that were left on the wood.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3242.jpg
Tracing paper template of the deck

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3243.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3247.jpg
Using the jig saw to cut out the deck

bigredinohio

10-11-2009, 12:53 AM

Next, I cut out my forward bulkhead by simply using the existing as a template and using the jig saw to cut out.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3244.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3248.jpg

Then I moved on to the side gunnel rails. These are the boards that run on the top of the inside of the boat that are usually cushioned. I only had one to work from as the other had rotted years ago and the one I did have was in pretty bad shape. I did manage to trace a template from the original and then I cut the first one by cutting 1/4" away from the line. After that one was made, I flipped it over (using BC grade ply and I want good ply on the outside for both pieces) and clamped it down and cut it by using the first piece. Afterwards, I left them clamped and sanded down to the finish line for both so the matched exactly.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3249.jpg
Clamped together during cutting and sanding.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3250.jpg
Matching gunnel rails

Chris

10-11-2009, 09:26 PM

Thanks red!

I very much appreciate you taking the time to post this up!

I know your step by step detailed pics, will help a number of people long into the future. :thumb:

-Chris

dave

10-11-2009, 11:04 PM

good job!

Boat Tech

10-12-2009, 01:02 AM

]good job[/b]!X 2. Looks like a lot of work, But in the end it should be all worth it.:drool::thumb: And thank's for taking the time of posting it all up in detail for us.:)

bigredinohio

10-25-2009, 12:42 PM

Here are some pictures to update with. It's been slow going as I've been toying around with some thoughts and ideas.

I've been glassing the underside of the deck for a week now using 6" tape cloth (10oz). Yes, watching paint dry would be more fun but I hava a whole roll to use up and I'm in no big hurry since I still have bad balsa to remove. Hopefully this will reduce the amount of crown of the 1/2" wood after I take the weights off.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3252.jpg
Front

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3253.jpg
Back

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3260.jpg
Overall

I also have the stringer glassed on both sides. I used 6" cloth on this also since the tallest part of the stringer/floor support will be approximately 5.5" so the part not glassed will eventually be cut off and both edges sealed. Depending on how much cloth I have left, I may go ahead and glass the edges also.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3255.jpg
Stringer

Here is my bulkhead or whatever you call it glassed on both sides. It too will require final trimming and edges sealed.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3254.jpg
Bulkhead

Lastly, I have one side of my rail boards glassed and will probably glass the other side tonight. I did not use my tape on these as they were wider then 6" so I had to cut out of my large roll of cloth.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3261.jpg
Gunnel rails

Chris

10-27-2009, 10:06 PM

Awesome!

Thanks again for the update and for posting your pics. :)

-Chris

bigredinohio

10-27-2009, 11:56 PM

Not a problem. Glad I could contribute.

bigredinohio

10-31-2009, 05:01 PM

Here is an update on progress...I have all my pieces glassed on both sides except my deck. I have the bottom side glassed but will do the top side after installation. Meanwhile, I bought a Silverline tri hull for an extra motor. I bought the boat, motor and trailer for $500. Here are some pictures.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3296.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3297.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3298.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3299.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3300.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3305.jpg

bigredinohio

10-31-2009, 05:02 PM

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3306.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3301.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3310.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3290.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3289.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/Checkmate/Silverline/IMG_3295.jpg

Gene B

11-02-2009, 12:04 AM

Hi,

Looks familiar. I spent 2 1/2 years restoring a plywood trimaran. Some tips I picked up along the way:

You can use old margarine tubs for mixing pots if you run them through the dishwasher first to get rid of any trace of oil.

There is a wide range of thickening agents, from talcum powder and wood powder to microballoons, depending on the characteristics you want.

Thickened epoxy heats up faster, especially in a big batch. I have had some luck with mixing it in the bottom of a plastic pail to give it more surface area to dump heat.

My favorite tool for working thickened epoxy is a chemical spatula with a spoon shape at one end (for scooping thickener) and a long, narrow flat blade at the other. I got mine from Fisher Chemical, though I don't know where you might find one in Ohio.

When working with epoxy, you can clean up with vinegar instead of acetone; cheaper and safer.

Good luck in your project.

Gene

bigredinohio

11-02-2009, 01:01 AM

Thanks for all the tips. I'm using microballons for a thickening agent and sometimes I add homemade glass fibers for added strength. I learned the hardway about mixing too much at a time so I work in smaller batches.

I have several tools for glassing and the main tool I use is the cheap chip brush that I use for a couple of days then dispose of. If glassing 1708, I'll occasionally use a fiberglass roller and for fillets I use a paint stir stick that I rounded the edge on. For distribution, the best thing I found is a straight up 1:1 pump.

I never heard of vinegar being used for clean up. I will definitely give that a try as the acetone will knock you sideways if not using the respirator.

bigredinohio

11-02-2009, 01:03 AM

I removed some more rotted core while standing on my head today. It has to be the best thing to do when not watching football...NOT! Anyways, it had to be done and here are some pictures of the core removed and hopefully I will have it replaced later this week.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3333.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3331.jpg

kytekeith

01-16-2010, 01:27 PM

I love those old towers, Are you leaving that on the boat?
When they came out with the thunderbolt ignition power was added.

Chris

01-16-2010, 02:09 PM

I love those old towers, Are you leaving that on the boat?
When they came out with the thunderbolt ignition power was added.
Welcome aboard Keith - nice to have you with us. :)

-Chris

kytekeith

01-17-2010, 12:25 PM

Sinbad's Mom

01-19-2010, 03:35 PM

Wow!! And to think I'm proud of myself when I refinish an old dresser.
Congratulations on excellent workmanship, artistry and patience...something to be truly proud of.
:cheers:

bigredinohio

01-22-2010, 05:16 PM

After lookiing again I think i have mistaken the year of those mercs. What year are they and the checkmate?

Whan i was a kid in the 70's i watched and dreamed of having a Checkmate ,Baja , and Carlson /glasstron. Now a few boats later I Bought a 79 Carlson with a 115 merc. and thought i was in heaven. The wood started to go away, lost a cylinder ,And practicaly gave it away because I didn't want to do what you are doing now. The next day I came across a 76 Hydrostream Vector with a merc on it and just had to have it.(couldn't be boatless for one day, sad huh?) I looked it over and thought it was solid., found out later i was wrong. This time I didn't give up, in process of recoring now.

keep up the good work . look good . love it when someone brings back one of my old dream boats!!

:cheers:

How do you post pics from my library??

I apologize for not being on here as of late. With the weather cold, I haven't had much of an opportunity to do much work on the boat so I come and go with less regularity.

I'm glad you're doing a restore on the Hydro. I think it's much more rewarding and you gain a better appreciation for boats and those who make them. Be sure to take lots of pictures and document the progress in a thread...I'll look and see if you've started one.

The boat is a 1975 V-Mate II and the motor that came with it is a 1972-73 Mercury 150 Tower of Power (TOP). That motor is some what rough so I bought a Siverline Trihaul with a 1977 Merc TOP which will eventually be the motor on the Checkmate. The '73 motor will either be rebuilt or used as a parts motor.

As for posting pictures, I upload my pics to photobucket then use the insert pictures button to post the pic link.

Chris

01-22-2010, 08:59 PM

Good to see you back around b.r.o. I was wondering what you were up to. :)

-Chris

bigredinohio

01-22-2010, 10:44 PM

Good to see you back around b.r.o. I was wondering what you were up to. :)

-Chris

I've been trying to kill Bambi for the better part of winter but have been unsuccessful :yell: so now it's just a matter of staying warm.

How has your winter been up north? Hope the family is doing well!

Chris

01-23-2010, 11:38 PM

I've been trying to kill Bambi for the better part of winter but have been unsuccessful :yell: so now it's just a matter of staying warm.

How has your winter been up north? Hope the family is doing well!The winter around Toronto has been pretty tame. :)

Hopefully the snow levels will stay fairly low so we can get back to cottaging and boating early this year. :thumb:

-Chris

bigredinohio

04-07-2010, 06:27 PM

The weather has been getting warmer and I'm getting my motivation going again. I ordered some fiberglassing materials last Friday from U.S. Composites to finish up the last of the core repair. I also ordered poly resin which I haven't worked much with but it will be exciting. I bought some CSM and Woven Roven to rebuild the spashwell, fabricate a solid fiberglass windshield and to patch unwanted holes such as in the dash and around inside the interior.

Shopping list was:
3 gallons of epoxy
2 gallons of poly
2 containers of cabosil
1 container of 3M Glass bubbles
3 yards of WR
9 yards of CSM

Also, I've been tinkering with my old outboard (my back up motor) that went with the Checkmate. I stopped by a Mercury dealer and bought some goodies for the other motor but I've been itching to mess with this one. I purchased lower unit oil, fogging oil, 2 stoke oil, carb repair kit, water pump kit and some other misc. items. The past couple of days, I've been working on taping up bare wires in my external wire harness and stator wires. I also removed each spark plug and sprayed a little fogging oil into each cylinder and turned the flywheel by hand to coat each wall. Today, I decided to fire it up and but the starter acted up. The starter would spin in place and not engage the flywheel. I ended up taking a screw driver and freed the starter and sprayed a little lube onto the shaft.

I must of done something wrong...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41FfOkV2yRk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41FfOkV2yRk)

IT STARTED!!!

The motor still needs some attention. I still need to do a compression test so I'm not wasting too much time and money into this thing. Gas did gush out of the carbs when I pumped the bulb so they'll probably need rebuilt. I'd like to replace the water pump and replace all bad wires.

Now I just hope the motor that I do intend to use starts up with no problems and passes the compression test.

bigredinohio

04-09-2010, 07:04 PM

Today, I got to pull the boat out and get some work done on it. The first thing I did was to pop the cap back off so I could do some trimming and sanding. I stribed a line where the spashwell was hanging up on the transom to allow for a better fit.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3545.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3546.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3547.jpg
Finished cutting using my dremel tool w/ reinforced cutting wheel

Afterwards, I sanded the gelcoat and metal flake off down to actual fiberglass. When I start to rebuild the splashwell, I'll need this so I can adhere the new layup to.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3548.jpg
Bottom of spashwell sanded

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3549.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3550.jpg
When I bought this boat, they had the steering coming from the hole in the right. I didn't pay any attention if I could use the factory hole but I'm thinking of going ahead and patching that hole and if I need it, I'll simply drill a new one.

Lastly, I removed the last of my bad core...FINALLY! It was a real pain even with the cap slid forward for easier access. I hope either tonight or tomorrow that I can go ahead and epoxy the new core in and hopefully lay some glass over the repair area. If I ever have to do core repair in my lifetime, it will be too soon.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3553.jpg
No more black rotted core

All in all, it's been a pretty good week! :cheers:

bigredinohio

04-10-2010, 11:11 PM

Did some more work today. I cranked on all the heaters this morning until my garage was about 90 degrees. With all the bad core now removed, I set the new in and now my core repair is finally complete.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3555.jpg

Since I had time to kill today, I finally got around to scraping the adhesive/sealer off of the hall that seals the cap to the hall. I ended up using some carb cleaner with a kitchen scratch pad to get the remaining bits off. After that, I decided that I'm most likely going to redo my dash completely so I made some plugs to fill in some holes using some 3/4" plywood. I still need to do some work with the big hole but I didn't want to mess with cutting into the dash and making a mess on my core repair. They aren't the prettiest but after they are glued in and glassed over, you'll never know there were any holes.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3556.jpg

This evening I mixed up some pb and filled in all the gaps around the core.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3557.jpg

Tomorrow with weather permitting, I will sand and lay a layer of cloth glass over the
two upper sections.

Chris

04-11-2010, 12:51 AM

Looking good B.R.O. it's coming along!

Thanks for sharing, it's fun following along, so keep 'em coming. :)

-Chris

bigredinohio

04-11-2010, 02:26 PM

Today, I glassed over the repair forward repair area.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3560.jpg
Not to worry, there was excess glass that didn't need wetted out. It will get sanded off.

Then I took 1708 and covered the entire back section stopping short of the new glassing in the front. I will let everything set up and cure then I will sand the front and just enough of the 1708 that I laid today to overlap when I blanket the front section with 1708. Then I'll be ready to install the stringer. :bounce:

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3558.jpg
Rollling out 1708. I really wanted to flip it and have the csm up and the biax cloth down but I was afraid that the stitching might cause a bonding issue.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3559.jpg
Trimming around the tabs with an exacto knife

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3565.jpg
1708 drinking up the resin

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3566.jpg
Working with this stuff is a job to wet out

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3567.jpg
I used a 2x4 to help reach them hard to reach places

bigredinohio

04-13-2010, 09:32 PM

I finished glassing the forward core repair with 1708 yesterday. My core repair is officially over, unless there is an issue down the road.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3578.jpg

Today, I trimmed my stringer (or floor support if you like) and it's finally in the boat. The process I used was simple to get the original height. First, I scribed the bottom where it seemed a little high then I cut a line down where the tabs of the original floor are. This allowed me to pull a string from one tab acoss through the line I cut to the other tab to get my height. I did this for the front, middle and rear section of the stringer then ran a chalk line across all three marks then used a circular saw to cut a nice straight line.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3580.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3579.jpg

Afterwards, I bedded it in place using PL Premium.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3581.jpg

Once in place, I used 2x4's weighted down with some concrete block to hold in place so I could make sure it was centered as best as it could be then ran a bead of PL down the edge to do fillets.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3584.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3582.jpg

dave

04-14-2010, 06:52 PM

looks like it will be better than new when you are all finished, keep up the good work.

Chris

04-14-2010, 11:22 PM

It's really coming along. :thumb:

Is the glass mat making you itchy?

I ask as you're working in shorts. :eek: :)

-Chris

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:30 AM

It's really coming along. :thumb:

Is the glass mat making you itchy?

I ask as you're working in shorts. :eek: :)

-Chris

Thanks Chris! I've been trying to make some progress lately.

I don't have any itch problems from working with new fiberglass. It's the fiberglass dust from sanding the already cured glass that makes me itch. :yikes:

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:32 AM

looks like it will be better than new when you are all finished, keep up the good work.

Thanks Dave! I certainly hope when I finally get the boat on the water that it was worth all the blood, sweat and tears.

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:36 AM

I decided to take a trip down to my folks where I have my other boat stored just to work on the other motor. After a little tinkering with taping some bad wires that will need replaced and checking the plugs, it started right up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbMQCikKX7Y (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbMQCikKX7Y)

I didn't hook up any of the other wires to the battery so I didn't have it trimmed down all the way. Because of this, I noticed some gas dripping from the middle carb while it was running which is kind of hard to see in the video. I wonder if this is normal or not with these old motors? I'll most likely will have the carbs rebuilt this fall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiOHjvLUlbE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiOHjvLUlbE)

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:37 AM

I made some progress by installing my deck. I glued it in using PL Premium then weighed it down with everything I could find. After setting it in place, I then filled in the seams with the leftover glue.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3614.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3615.jpg

I took off all the weight and scraped off any excess glue from the wood and hull. Then I mixed up a couple of batches of epoxy pb and fillet the edges.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3616.jpg

It's so nice to be able to walk on something flat in this boat for a change!

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:39 AM

I've started working on the seat bases. Here is the framed construction of my rear seat that will tie into the transom. Once done, I should be able to mount any size motor on this boat but for now, I'll start out with my 1500. When I'm done adding all this wood, I'll probably need a 250 hp to reach good speed.

Anyways, my 19 gallon fuel tank will be elevated in the back to give room for my bilge pump. There will be a 1" allowance on each side of the tank for adding foam or whatever buffer I come up with. The total height of the base for the rear bench seat will only 8" tall. The total height from deck to top of the cap is only 22" so I want company to be confortable without feeling like they are going to fall out. The depth of the seat will be 18". Here are a couple of pictures of what I have thus far but my pieces still need to be contoured to the hall...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3617.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3618.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3619.jpg

Also, here is the basic construction of my front seat base mounts. I still need to contour the edges with the hall and make the tops that the seat will bolt to.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3620.jpg

bigredinohio

04-30-2010, 09:40 AM

Here are some updated pictures...

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3621.jpg
Roughed construction of the rear seat

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3622.jpg
Glassed the back and seat of the bench seat.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3627.jpg
Fitted supports that will tie into the transom

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3626.jpg

bigredinohio

05-10-2010, 11:48 AM

I've got some more work done. I switched resins this weekend from epoxy to polyester. I don't mind working with the new resin but I don't care much for working with csm.

I filled in some holes in the dash by cutting out some 3/4" plywood to match the holes. I glued them in place then I came back and sanded the area and applied a couple of layers of csm and then a layer of 1708.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3638.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3641.jpg

I also glassed in the pieces that will make up the base of my bench seat along with the base of my two front seats using csm.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3639.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3640.jpg

bigredinohio

05-10-2010, 11:48 AM

I took some small bolts and reattached my hull and my cap. This is only until I finish glassing the splashwell and I'll seperate them again so I can paint. I then laid down some wax paper across the transom to keep the new glassing of the spashwell from sticking.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3637.jpg

I then wetted out a piece of woven roven and applied it to the existing area and wrapping it up and over the transom. Afterwards, I clamped it down in place to make sure it would be flat. After setting up, I then wetted out a piece of csm and applied over the WR and them laid a 2x4 over the top of the transom to ensure flatness on the top. It will need some sanding before building more layers but it's a start.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3642.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3643.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3645.jpg

I finished up tonight by glassing my deck using csm. I will come back with epoxy and cloth and tab the edges where I used PB to fill the gap between the wood and hull.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3644.jpg

Chris

05-26-2010, 10:47 PM

Looking good!

Thanks for sharing. :)

-Chris

bigredinohio

06-09-2010, 12:22 AM

It's been a while since I've updated so here goes...

I've been sanding on the top of the deck and filling in holes. I've been wetting out a piece of CSM and place it on the backside of the hole and let it cure. I mixed up some epoxy with cabosil and milled fibers and then filled the hole. I did a light sanding with the orbital sander then came back with some epoxy and 3M bubbles to smooth the surface. Now I need to go back and sand smooth and it should be ready for final sanding and priming. Unfortunately, I have not taken many pictures but here is what I have.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3714.jpg

I also used the epoxy, cabosil and milled fiber mixture and started building up a couple of areas on the bottom stern of the boat where some serious gouges were.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3719.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3720.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3721.jpg

bigredinohio

06-09-2010, 12:23 AM

Some other progress has been made with making my seat mount boxes. I pre-glassed them with poly resin and csm then glued everything together with PL Premo and ran a couple of screws to hold in place. After the PL Premo cures, I will come back, sand and glass all the interior edges with some epoxy and cloth.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3718.jpg

I also made a template for the piece of wood that I cut to access my core up in the bow of the boat. After transferring the template, I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and glued it in place with some PL Premo and I used some blocks of wood screwed in place from the top to hold the wood in place. I would tighten the screw to raise the new piece of wood or loosen to lower since the 1/2" was thicker then the original piece. I will finish by sanding the seam of PL Premo, tab the edge and then glass the repair area.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/bigredinohio/IMG_3717.jpg

john lamon

06-09-2010, 04:28 AM

Looks like the mate is coming along good, nice work.

here's a few pics of my neighbors 76' v-mate II, he spent a whole lot of time on it and it turned out great, it has a 2008 220 hp 4.3 MPI in it and it runs in the high 60's. I just though I'd share with you because they are so similar, aside from the I/O O/B thing.

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac199/johnlamon/76%20v-mate/10boat058.jpg?t=1276068230

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac199/johnlamon/76%20v-mate/10boat059.jpg?t=1276068230

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac199/johnlamon/76%20v-mate/10boat067.jpg?t=1276068230